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Enchanting Bhutan: Happiness in the air

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BANGKOK, 13 December 2023: In the heart of the Himalayas lies a kingdom shrouded in mystical and enchanting clouds, with brightly painted temples and snow on the ground. 

In a courtyard, the only sounds are birdsongs and the chanting echos of monk’s prayers and occasional chimes that shatter the silence, the air heavy with incense; monks go about their daily rituals, dedicated yet resplendent in their dark red robes. This is Bhutan. 

With clean air, glacial streams of stunning purity, the world’s tallest mountains as a backdrop, wonderful treks and forest walks and a population of less than 1 million people, this small landlocked country is nestled deep in the mountains between India and China. 

Exploring Bhutan this week, I immediately recognised this tiny land-locked nation has not lost any of its magical charm. The trip is a 10-day  visit in December 2023 after a gap of nine years. 

Being a mountainous region in the Himalayas, you should brace yourself for the purity of the air, but it is also thinner at an altitude of 2,000 to 3,000 metres. Our tour includes walks and sightseeing, so it’s not a major issue, but you have to pace yourself and drink plenty of fluids. 

The guidebooks remind us that since Bhutan shifted to a democratic constitutional monarchy in 2008, the country has embarked on a development strategy founded on the principle of Gross National Happiness under the guidance of its much-loved royal family. 

Bhutan is not a rich country. Other than the capital, Thimphu, there are few roads, and traffic lights are rare. Economic growth in Bhutan has reduced poverty, helped by a rising GNP with the sale of excess hydropower to India and strong services performance, including tourism.

Along mountain passes, bridges, monasteries, stupas, temples, mountain peaks and homes, we are greeted everywhere with the sacred prayer flags and their blessings. These vivid flags not only add colour and energy with their flutterings but they are infused with important religious and cultural significance and should be treated with respect.

The prayer flags are made of block-printed fabric using traditional printing techniques from centuries ago. They are inscribed with auspicious and sacred emblems and mantras. You will receive good karma and will benefit from the blessings as they are carried from the flag via the wind to you and the heavens.

Bhutan is sometimes called the Land of the Thunder Dragon, a reference to the mixture of folklore and observations of the frequent mountain storms. 

Folklore tells us that one of the strongmen who came down from Tibet in the 17th century encountered a severe thunderbolt on the way to his new land – the sparking lights of the thunderbolts were made by red fire coming out of a dragon. It describes the Bhutan experience: a sparkling light of enlightenment as you experience genuine happiness and awe-inspiring natural wonders.  

(Source: Andrew Wood)

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