Health and heritage in Prachinburi

Prachinburi, a small provincial town 135 km east of Bangkok is one of those places you could easily miss on a journey to Aranyapathet or the world heritage Khao Yai National Park.

It deserves the short 10 km diversion off highway 33 to explore an exceptionally well preserved royal palace, and its links to health and wellness products dating back to the early 1900s.

This short detour to Prachinburi town is quickly rewarded by the sight of an imposing historical palace standing in the grounds of a hospital overlooking the Prachinburi River. The hospital has pioneered for decades herbal and wellness products developed from herbs grown in its gardens. Visitors can also buy the products at a shop or book a traditional therapeutic massage at a clinic adjacent to the palace.

At first you might dismiss a provincial hospital as poor choice for sightseeing, until you enter the driveway and catch a glimpse of the imposing Chao Phraya Abhaibhubate Palace.

Originally built in 1909 by a local dignitary, Chao Phraya Abhaibhubate, it was intended as a residence for King Chulalongkorn Rama V for an official visit to the province. Unfortunately, the king succumbed to an illness and died before he could make the journey.

The tall two-storey palace constructed in 1909, following the style of French Baroque architecture with some Rococo style adaptations, is in immaculate condition, fully restored even to a fresh coat of yellow paint on its exterior walls and trim.

It is an impressive two-storey brick building, 18.60 metres high and 38.40 metres long and divided into three halls on each floor with lofty ceilings and equally high stately doors made of solid teak.

A stroll through the ground and upper floor halls is pleasant due to a cool ambient temperature created by high ceilings and tiled floors. Outside the mid-day sun scorches visitors, who are admiring the building from the garden, while the design protects interior halls by surrounding them entirely with outer corridors and annexes that keep the fierce tropical sun at bay.

Typical European tiles and interior decorations of the early 1900s are in mint condition and still bear traces of their brands visible on roof tiles, floor tiles, rooster statues and the weather vane. The building stucco was ornamented in a western style, yet it blends with the important Thai symbol of an elephant on a pole under the archivolt (molding on an archway). Visitors can admire fresco mural paintings on the ceilings and walls of the main halls.

After the death of King Rama V,  his successor King Vajiravudh Rama VI and members of the royal family visited the palace during various trips to the eastern provinces.

The building was declared a national historic site in 1990 and is now a museum with a collection of books, herbs, traditional medicines, tools reflecting rural life and interesting historical portraits. Unfortunately, restoration was limited to providing written explanations in just the  Thai language,  so much of the significance is lost for visitors unless they have a guide.

Chao Phraya Abhaibhubate Hospital is a pioneer in herbal medicine and its healthcare products – shampoos, soap and skincare creams – can be found in most department stores. It is also famous for Thai traditional treatments, namely massage, herbal compress, herbal sauna and acupuncture. A shop on site sells all the healthcare products, while a clinic offers traditional treatments.

There are some solid reasons why Prachinburi town and its palace could figure in at least two overland tour itineraries that start in Bangkok.

One of the routes  passes through the world heritage Khao Yai National Parks, located in Prachinburi province with the southern park gate just 20 km north of the provincial town.

Khao Yai National Park is shared by four provinces namely, Saraburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nakhon Nayok and Prachinburi. However, the transfer to the southern park gate in Prachinburi province from Bangkok is the more scenic route with lighter traffic than on the route via Saraburi and the Pak Chong gate.

Prachinburi is also close to the highway that runs east to Aranyapathet at the Thai-Cambodia border. Tour groups  use this overland route to enter Cambodia and journey east 160 km to Siem Reap, home of the fabled Angkor Wat.

A stop at Prachinburi’s former royal palace could add value to tours on either of these routes, while offering a convenient break in the journey in a rural community setting, about two hours after leaving Bangkok.

Tourism Authority of Thailand Nakhon Nayok Office, assistant director, Chaiwat Tamthai told TTR Weekly: “TAT is promoting this destination domestically and it is already popular with Thai visitors.

“The majority are people interested in alternative medicines and mainly domestic travellers from other provinces”

Yet he recognises there is potential  for international tourists and Prachinburi’s suitability to fit into a Cambodian-bound overland itinerary.

“The main selling point would be alternative medicine, or naturopathy, while the palace is important to Thais,  it might not have enough appeal to persuade international travellers to visit the town.”

Alternative medicine, he claims is the town’s real strength, but there are drawbacks such as the lack of knowledge about Thai alternative medicine in international markets.

Asked about the lack of English signage at the palace he said: “We try to improve the destination by adding signs and descriptions in English.”