Retracing trails through Myanmar

Despite sanctions led by the US and EU countries, Myanmar’s tourism continues to attract travellers, who believe their tourism revenue will ultimately filter down to grass root level.

Commenting on the country’s tourism veteran travel agent, Bent Laasholdt, who runs Adisti Travel and Adventure, believes “engagement” is the way to go as visits are helping small companies and resorts to survive.

He actively encourages European tourists to visit the country claiming many of the assets and features that attracted him to visit the country back in 1982 remain intact and are even more accessible today.

After a recent trip to the country,  leading a group of Danish tourists, he forwarded these comments and observations to TTR Weekly.

“Back in 1982 and 83, I conducted several roundtrip tours in Myanmar with Danish groups. At that time there was actually a quota of only 2,000 tourists, per year, allowed to enter the country. Most hotels, bus companies and travel agencies were controlled by the state and most itineraries were vetted by the authorities and were generally limited to Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan. But it was still a remarkable trip for the hardy traveller.

“I was back in Myanmar, last month, also to lead a group of experienced Danish travellers, who claim to have travelled to almost every destination on the planet, except Myanmar.

“They thought it was the right time to make the trip and see for themselves. For me it represented a positive sign that the tour business to Myanmar could be coming back from key European markets.

“We observed a country that has professionally-run travel agencies, tour bus companies and hotels, privately owned, that meet international standards.

“But it is probably the only country in Asia, which has not changed very much since 1982. That could be an advantage as travellers look for sustainable tourism products and a traditional, genuine Southeast Asian experience.

“In 2009, I surveyed travel products in Myanmar to plan this specialised tour for my Danish customers. My first impression was that it was possible to travel almost freely throughout the country. The task of creating an interesting itinerary was easy and I was impressed to see that the country’s culture, the response to foreigners and the level of hospitality remained the same as I experienced in 1982.

“Arrival procedures in Yangon’s new international airport are convenient and quite user friendly. Very few travel agencies bother with the visa on arrival, preferring to get the visa application done before leaving and that saves time at the airport.

“Travel on domestic airline routes was fine. The destinations served by the network and the standard of aircraft used have improved and flights are much better managed. It’s a free seating arrangement on aircraft, but it was quite civilized, no panic dashes by passengers. Baggage handling is still done manually. Of course, it is slower, but it doesn’t fail when there is a power blackout.

“My Danish customers, from a land famed for its beer, acknowledged the quality of the local brew and we were surprised to see red, white and rose wines of a reasonable standard widely available. But my favourite drink was the Mandalay Rum – a dash of rum in a hot coffee made all the difference.

“Our itinerary started with visits to the main attractions around Yangon and then an airline transfer to He Ho and a short drive to Inle Lake, where we stayed at a resort on the lake and travelled to all the sights around the lake by boat.

“Two observations: Fishermen row their boats with one foot so they have their hands free to handle the nets; local households produce a kind of silk material from threads obtained from the lotus stem.

“Mandalay and especially Amarapura with its monastery with almost 2,000 monks taking their single meal of the day at the same time, just before noon, was a sight you rarely see in the region these days. But not to forget the U-Bein Teak Bridge, which is a photographer’s dream at sunset.

“We took a cruise down the Ayawaddy River on the beautiful RV Paukan from Mandalay to Bagan with an overnight on board.

“Bagan is a must-see destination in Southeast Asia. We were amazed at the sight of thousands of pagodas particularly  during  sunset or sunrise.

“We ended our trip at the beach, travelling from Bagan to Tandwe by air and from the small airport we boarded a mini bus for a 10-minute transfer to Ngapali Beach.

“This beach is probably one of the finest beaches in the region and the few resorts that have been established here are good quality and value for money.

“It is also possible to make boat trips to small islands with excellent snorkelling and fishing. Visitors can rent a cycle at the resorts to explore small fishing villages along the coast. There are a few restaurants serving local dishes, mainly curries, and fresh seafood.

My group was made up of 28 experienced travellers, who rated Myanmar as one of the best countries they had ever visited, mainly because of the friendliness of the people and consistent quality service at every destination. We stayed in a hotel that delivered a product on par with neighbouring countries. Prices were reasonable. Their conclusion, as they boarded a flight to Bangkok, was predictable: “We will be back.”

Bent Laasholdt, Adisti Travel and Adventure, Bangkok, Thailand