Asia’s premier cycle destination

TEAM Dai, a group of 26 hardy cyclists, resident in Vientiane, Laos, rode from the capital to Luang Prabang, mid-last month, to raise almost US$15,000 for two of the country’s charities.  

It was the second annual charity ride, organised by the group made up of staff working for non-government organisations, aid programmes and expatriates living in Vientiane. 

The riders covered 400 km in just three days following highway 13 north over the mountains to the world heritage town of Luang Prabang.

Funds raised from the charity ride were split equally between COPE and Handicap International, two charities that provide mobility devises for amputees. At the close of the ride they had raises US$14,476. Donations are still being made through the Team Dai website.

Apart from raising funds the ride underscored the popularity of the Vientiane-Luang Prabang route now considered Asia’s premier cycle tour.

It is certainly the most popular, attracting all levels of fitness enthusiasts, from weekend warriors on road bikes to heavy-duty tourists, who even carry their camping and cooking gear.

Over the years, guest houses have sprung up in response to the steady passage of cyclists, in search of overnight stops at distances of between 80 to 100 km, along Highway 13.

Lonely Planet recommends that this heritage route be completed in five easy days. Team Dai cyclists did it three energy-sapping days that started an hour before dawn, to allow them time to reach their overnight stops by late-afternoon. They were covering distances of more than 120 km a day across mountain ranges that took them to heights of over 1,300 metres and finally the dramatic descent to Luang Prabang. A four-day ride is a comfortable compromise that will still test fitness.

Cyclists can still be spotted on this highway even in the low season, but ideally this trip is at its best between mid-October to late February.

It is not difficult to work out why this route is so popular. Firstly, the task of covering 400 km can be reduced to manageable daily slices.

Then the road is sealed, although rough in places. This makes it suitable for a variety of bikes from sportive racers to the work-horse mountain bike. It is also relatively free of traffic, other than a smattering of buses and trucks.

Of course, many groups complete the task in the lap of luxury (relatively speaking). They hire a travel agency to provide a support vehicle and even a police escort, to comply with the law.

However, it is just as much fun to cycle this route independently, although it is important to book rooms in advance at Vang Vieng, 160 km from Vientiane, on the first night, before the hill stages start. And again at the final destination, Luang Prabang.  Visit www.vang-vieng.com.

During the three days in the mountains, guest house accommodation is taken at pot luck. There are two guest houses in Kasi and one just beyond Kasi, at Bor Nam Oun. Further north, the hill-top villages of Phou Khoun and Kia Khacham have two guest houses each. In between, bottled water and fresh fruit can be purchased in tiny Hmong villages. 

Guest house standards decline once you leave Vang Vieng, although they are adequate after a long day’s ride in the mountains. Owners also run small restaurants where they serve Thai style dishes to visitors – chicken tom yam, fried pork with ginger and mixed vegetables stirred fried.  Dishes are served with sticky rice, a great source of energy for the adventure traveller. Breakfast is usually a bread roll and a fried egg, washed down by a strong local coffee, sweetened with condensed milk.

The mountain section is a comfortable challenge over three days. Each daily stage covers a distance of 80 km, with tough climbs of 20 km or more. Gradients are mainly in the 6 to 8% range. On a few occasions they drift upwards to the 10 to 12% mark, but only on short stretches.

Panoramic views of the hill country are the compensation for the upward slogs. So are the fast descents, losing up to 700 metres in 12 to 13 km of hairpin bends. On a touring or mountain bike you will glide through the bends at 50 kmph.

Team Dai’s epic three-day adventure required support cars. Tour operators offer a similar service for groups. Green Discovery, in Vientiane, delivers all the trappings, including the notorious “broom truck” that sweeps up exhausted riders, who have just prayed to be taken in the arms of an angel, to a heavenly guest house. Yes, there are moments when you might ask: “Why did I sign up for this kind of tour?”

The answer is usually discovered at the night’s lodging, when sipping icy cold Beer Lao, you relive the day’s excitement with colleagues and friends.

Solo riders often join up with other riders on the way north. I teamed up with Team Dai rider, Peter Semone, an EU project leader in Vientiane, Laos and an ex Pacific Asia Travel Association vice president. Even if that is not possible the route is safe to solo. In the mountains, the Hmong villagers always greet you with a wave and the familiar “Sabai Dee” greeting.

How many times will you say Sabai Dee on a cycle tour in Laos? You will lose count, so too the number of times children rush out to give you a high five. At the time it escapes you that these gestures are highlights missed by tourists speeding by in minivans.

They also miss being overtaken by hardy school children, who ride their heavy single-speed bikes up the hills like professionals. But that’s another story. Once in Luang Prabang, a hot shower is heaven and if there is a higher tier to heaven, it is sitting in a soft armchair at the town’s Pack Luck Wine Bar, sipping a glass of red wine.

You might ask what is the real charm of Luang Prabang; its ultimate tourism asset? It’s a place to chill out and that is all the more enjoyable after four or five days getting there over the hills on Highway 13.

Whether you join the annual Team Dai charity ride, or tackle this route solo, you will promise yourself to do it again. I know, I’ve cycled this classical tour route three times and was already planning the next trip as I sipped my second red in the Pack Luck bar. Team Dai will organise the third charity ride, March 2010. See www.teamdai.com.

 

400 km ride on Highway 13.

Day 1 Vientiane to Vang Vieng 160 km

Day 2 Vang Vieng to Bor  Nam Oun (Kasi) 80km

Day 3 Bor Nam Oun to Kiew Kacham 80 km

Day 4 Kiew Kacham to Luang Prabang 80 km

Budget: Bt10,000 including two nights in LP.